850 Feet Up and Still Looking for Pants
Every April, New York Bridal Fashion Week pulls designers, buyers and press into a whirlwind of runways, rooftop showcases and cocktail-hour presentations. This year, I had the opportunity to attend as a photographer and writer for Equally Wed, covering the spring/summer 2027 collections with an eye toward what they mean for LGBTQ+ couples and anyone who has ever felt like the bridal industry wasn’t designed with them in mind.
As a nonbinary wedding photographer, I cover wedding fashion with a different perspective and set of priorities. I’m always on the look out for color, non-dress options, size diversity and signs that the industry is expanding its vision of what wedding attire can include. Some shows this season pleasantly surprised me while others were heavy reminders of how much room there still is for growth.
Over the course of three days, I attended shows and presentations from more than a dozen designers, from intimate studio showcases to a runway 850 feet above Manhattan. Here’s what I saw.
STATE OF THE WEDDING INDUSTRY CELEBRATE MELANGE DE BLANC PREVIEW
Collection Inspiration: Celebrate was a unique format for NYBFW, bringing six designers onto one runway rather than centering a single collection. In place of one overarching theme, we got a preview of several SS27 collections back to back: White Lumière, La Premiere , Sena Masoud, Rebecca Schoneveld Bridal, Ellenelle Bridal and Stephanie Cachapuz.
Visual Themes: With six designers sharing the runway, the fun was in watching their individual visual languages complement and contrast each other. A lot of the trends I saw throughout the week made early appearances here. Rebecca Schoneveld’s romantic gowns seemed pulled straight from a fantasy novel. Ellenelle Bridal’s organza swan-inspired dress fit into the cloud-like aesthetic that will show up again and again throughout my coverage of the week. Basque waists, sheer fabrics and texture experimentation all had moments too.
Favorite Piece: I am a fiend for colors other than white in wedding wear. So when La Premiere brought out a black floral line-art dress, I instantly fell in love. The name hasn’t been publicly released yet, but it might be my favorite piece from the entire week. It features a gorgeous black floral pattern, gray-shaded sections that add dimension and stunning die-cut edges around the neckline and base.
Personal Thoughts: This was a great way to open the week. The multi-designer format was a treat, and it introduced me to several brands I wasn’t familiar with before and am now genuinely excited to follow. I also found it exciting that many of the participating designers were smaller studios doing work that larger bridal houses often don’t, including efforts toward sustainability, plus-size options, and customizable pieces.
The Show Itself: Celebrate was hosted at the Starrett-Lehigh building by the State of the Wedding Industry, a touring event for wedding industry professionals, as a preview event the day before the Melange de Blanc market opened. The space was intimate with a short looping runway, outlined by pink branching florals by House of Bernal.
MIRA ZWILLINGER
Collection Inspiration: Mira Zwillinger’s SS27 collection is called the Rise, inspired by “the moment when everything feels still, uncertain, quiet, just before something begins to rise.” This theme drifts my thoughts toward thunderstorms. Before every thunderstorm, warm, humid air sits close to the ground and cold, dry air lies above it. This instability sits until something causes the warm air to rise up, kicking off the formation of the storm. I see the Rise as that moment before the lift occurs, where the air holds tension and waits for the anticipation of what could come next.
Visual Themes: The collection played heavily with layering, bold botanical motifs and semi-sheer textures. Each piece felt like it was navigating a sense of push and pull between structure and delicateness. Sculptural accents and large cut-outs provided strong outlines that guided your eye through each piece.
Favorite Piece: My personal favorite was Elka, a strapless gown with detached 3D sleeves and a floral corset above a tea-length skirt with wide horizontal stripes. Each piece featured translucent fabrics that highlighted the competing visual themes. It’s very playful, very contemporary and the sleeves make me smile.
Personal Thoughts: While I’m never happy to see only dresses in a collection, the accessory range was a quiet highlight. Two capes, two detachable basque waists, and the Mela’s separate topper option gave the lineup a lot more flexibility than I thought it had at first. I loved that the visual language of the collection felt cohesive and committed to unexpected shapes and textures.
The Show Itself: Zwillinger’s show at Daylight Studio was a traditional runway show with models following a winding path through the room. The space was accented with white-budded branching florals but the crowd was so large that I could only see a few peeking out around the room.
WATTERS — BY WATTERS, WILLOBY, LOCKET
Collection Inspiration: Watters encompasses several brands, each with their own newest collection on display for this presentation. Watters La Main, French for “The Hand,” collection centers on handcrafted artistry. Willoby’s Curtain Call draws from the ornate aesthetics of vintage theaters. Locket (formerly WTOO)’s the Next Chapter is a “modern take on traditional silhouettes.” By Watters shared Married With Dogs, a collection of nontraditional wedding wear that includes options with short cuts, separates and pants.
Visual Themes: With four collections sharing the same space, the visual language shifted with each new look. La Main contrasted smooth satin against tightly textured fabrics, with optional capes and scarves adding to the variety. Curtain Call leaned into beading and draped designs as nods to old chandeliers and theater curtains. The Next Chapter felt intentionally broad, though less like a lack of direction and more like there was meant to be something for everyone. Married With Dogs kept cuts simple and let the details, like sheer lace capes and oversized sequins, shine.
Favorite Piece: I had the honor of getting a few moments to chat with members of the Watters team. During one conversation, I mentioned my never-ending quest for non-dress options. The next thing I knew, a model walked up to me wearing the By Watters Maren wo-piece shirt and pants set. Beyond being adorable and cozy looking, the set also features a functional feather accent that can be removed for easy cleaning.
Personal Thoughts: As a nonbinary person always looking for wedding attire beyond dresses, my favorite collection was unsurprisingly Married With Dogs. I love that Watters has created an entire brand of less commonly seen attire options that are both cute and comfortable. They work perfectly for low-key celebrations, vow renewals or reception outfits, but they’re also a beautiful bud on a tree I hope blossoms soon: not everything has to be a floor-length dress.
The Show Itself: The Watters presentation was a cocktail hour format held at the Waldorf Astoria’s Yoshoko Terrace. Passed bites, a sushi bar and a not-sushi bar kept guests comfortable while models posed on platforms around the room’s perimeter, cycling through highlights from all four collections throughout the evening. As someone who grew up in Pittsburgh and spent a lot of time at the Anthropologie Home Outlet, I also had fun recognizing almost all of the Waldorf’s lobby furniture.
BERTA
Collection Inspiration: BERTA unveiled three SS27 collections, framing them as a journey through Rococo aesthetics and the evolution of someone stepping fully into their own. Drawing from an era of opulence and unapologetic presence, the collections explore classic structure through a refreshed, confident lens.
Visual Themes: This was the second time during the week I encountered a reimagining of historical silhouettes, and BERTA’s interpretation played heavily with contrast between pieces. Sculptural forms and heavy texture sat alongside soft, silky, fluid materials. Basque waists, corsets and cat-eye necklines showed up throughout, creating a cohesive visual vocabulary even though the individual pieces varied widely.
Favorite Piece: Midway through the show, a high-neck sheath dress appeared with an ornate lace pattern that felt like it was straight out of a museum’s hall of sculpture. The sheer panels at the sides and neck added a geometric layer that really drew me in. The dramatic sparkly silver dress near the end of the show is also worth a mention, preferably without its hooded cape.
Personal Thoughts: The transitional pieces were my favorite repeated theme through the collection. So many looks started one way and transformed into something else entirely with the removal of a corset, overskirt, or other large accessory. It’s a practical and fun choice that I was pleased to see so much of.
The Show Itself: BERTA hosted several smaller appointments throughout NYBFW rather than one large show, inviting a handful of guests to each timeslot at their own flagship studio in SoHo. Each hour-long session featured over 30 looks on a proper runway. Set design was by Birch Creative, florals by Maison Tara, and live painter Brittany Branson recreated looks in watercolor on site throughout the show.
VERDIN
Collection Inspiration: For his eponymous brand Verdin, designer Gustavo Verdin sought inspiration from the impressionist landscape paintings of Claude Monet for his SS27 collection. Soft, airy and delicate nods to nature in bloom shine through delicate details and feminine silhouettes.
Visual Themes: It’s a romantic set, filled with lace, pearls and soft floral details. Classic Verdin thin bow belts add an occasional pop of a pastel pink or blue. The collection carries a lot of the same elements I saw throughout the week such as sheer panels and basque waists, but used in smaller, supplemental ways rather than as main features. There’s a notable focus on timelessness and simplicity.
Favorite Piece: Amongst the floral-forward ethereal designs came one that appeals directly to my heart, a suit set with an almost western vibe featuring beaded embroidered patterns and a cropped under layer. I was surprised to see it amongst the other designs in this collection but I’m incredibly glad it was there.
Personal Thoughts: Verdin’s collection reminds me of the romantic garden-party lace dresses of the 2010s, but with a few designs that bring in the bolder lines and experimental textures of today’s bridal styles. I was hoping for a bit more color or even some painted floral elements for a collection around impressionism, but it’s still a lovely set especially for a nearlywed who loves romantic styles.
The Show Itself: This was a quick, intimate studio showcase with a small runway set in a studio space on the 23rd floor of an NYC building at 545 Eighth Avenue. The show looped several times which was great from a photography perspective as I was able to see and capture pieces from a few angles.
ESÉ AZÉNABOR
Collection Inspiration: Esé Azénabor’s SS27 collection is aptly named Rise, a fitting title for a presentation that took place 850 feet in the air on a rooftop of Rockefeller Center. Surprisingly, I wasn’t able to find much information about the inspiration for this collection. However, Esé has cited the concrete structures of New York as an element of inspiration for past collections, and one unveiled in such a New York–centered way may share some of that source.
Visual Themes: There’s bold structure, hand-beaded embellishment and patterns so intricate you’d need a magnifying glass to appreciate their precision. The designs in Rise are dramatic and well-crafted, forming a collection of showstopper pieces for a style-forward marrier who wants to shine on their big day.
Favorite Piece: This is a genuine tie between two. There’s the gorgeous 3D floral pink gown, which I love because it’s one of the few colorful dresses I saw all week. But I think my favorite has to go to the sculptural, embellished high collar gown of my dreams. I have a huge soft spot for high necklines with shoulder cut-outs and the sparkle of this design brings it to the top of my list.
Personal Thoughts: I was starstruck both at the design quality of this collection and the execution of the showcase. This set also includes several pieces which feature removable parts to change up a look midday or offer flexibility. Something else I love through Esé’s full body of work is her multi-cultural inspiration, pulling design motivation from both African and European influences.
The Show Itself: This presentation was unlike anything I’ve ever seen. After arrival, we were escorted 70 floors up to the rooftop of 30 Rockefeller Center. There, models were waiting with breathtaking views of the Manhattan skyline behind them. We even had the amazing opportunity to photograph a few models raised up on a beam with all of New York City as their backdrop.
SEPT
Collection Inspiration: SEPT (pronounced ‘Set’) is the couture sub brand of Sarah Seven, focused on minimalist pieces with clean lines and fashion-forward tastes. The line is made-to-measure and offers some customization in the form of many separates and accessory options. This event unveiled Collection Five.
Visual Themes: The pieces in this collection were contemporary, simple and unobtrusive. SEPT went for an understated, quiet luxury look rather than anything over the top. Each piece felt wearable and easy to imagine on a real wedding day. There were no impractical sculptural elements or anything that felt runway-only.
Favorite Piece: My favorite was a silk sheath dress paired with a corded lace floor-length jacket. The simplicity of the gown and the intricacy of the jacket worked extremely well together, and the fringed floppy handbag they accessorized it with was a perfect cherry on top.
Personal Thoughts: SEPT included an older model in their lineup, which I always appreciate and still don’t see nearly enough of. Age diversity remains one of the common gaps to close in wedding wear. The separates-heavy approach was also a big plus in my book. Mixing and matching pieces opens up a lot of options for different bodies and style preferences, and it’s something I’m happy to see becoming more common.
The Show Itself: This presentation was a static showcase rather than a runway, with models lining the perimeter of a main room in Casino. The backdrop of red booths and tables set with crayons and thin cigarettes gave it a distinctly chic and chill feel. It was a late evening event and guests were served French fries which, at least in my case, were very needed by that point in the day.
JUSTIN ALEXANDER
Collection Inspiration: Chiaroscuro, Justin Alexander’s SS27 collection, borrows the Italian name of the light-dark art technique defined by its strong contrast between highlights and shadows.
Visual Themes: Fabrics throughout the collection carry textures reminiscent of brushstrokes and canvas, and subtly embossed designs play quietly with shadow and depth. The collection feels like it was built to lure a viewer forward and reward a closer look.
Favorite Piece: Two pieces stood out for me. The first is an A-line gown with off-the-shoulder sleeves and intricate bodice embellishment, including dainty beaded details strung charmingly from the sleeves. The second is a sheath dress with a geometric diamond pattern made of tiny beads, balanced by a large bow train adding volume without competing with the intricate pattern.
Personal Thoughts: Justin Alexander’s Chiaroscuro was the second collection I saw this week drawing inspiration from a painting movement, which felt fitting given the current industry focus on texture and tactile design. Also worth highlighting: this was the only standalone runway show I attended all week that included some size diversity in their models.
The Show Itself: This was a small private press preview with a short runway held on the 2nd floor at 873 Broadway. Models walked Justin Alexander’s full SS27 line, with a separate display nearby featured a few pieces from Fable, their adorable flower girl label.
POEZA
Collection Inspiration: Poeza is a new brand from Justin Alexander, and its debut collection is Chapter I: Dawn. The name comes from the Polish word for poetry, and the collection draws its inspiration from Shakespeare’s Sonnet 116, framing each design as “a verse she wears,” turning poetic lyricism into physical adornment.
Visual Themes: Poeza’s direction is romantic and deliberately timeless. It sets aside a trend-forward perspective for one focusing on elevated craftsmanship. Chapter I: Dawn starts the brand off with a minimalist, elegant collection built around refined embellishments, visible corsetry and soft, fluid fabrics.
Favorite Piece: This off-the-shoulder gown features a semi-pleated bottom and is covered in a subtle large floral print. The playful shape of the sleeves reminds me of ribbon candy and yet also feels like the perfect gown for running through a foggy castle lawn.
Personal Thoughts: Romantic gowns aren’t usually my personal taste, but I have deep appreciation for a brand with a strong core identity like Poeza’s. This collection will be a captivating find for anyone drawn to soft, feminine pieces. I found myself enamoured by the diversity of sleeves in this collection. Poeza also intends to only release once a year, which is appealing from a sustainability perspective in a world of fast-paced fashion cycles.
The Show Itself: Poeza’s presentation was held across the hall from Justin Alexander’s showcase as another small runway show but with an entirely different mood. The room was warm and brick-lined, dressed with cream drapery and lit by tall vertical windows.
VIKTOR & ROLF
Collection Inspiration: Viktor & Rolf’s Mariage SS27 focuses on experimentation with silhouettes. It explores the relationship between physical form and emotional response, pulling inspiration from the structure of natural elements such as florals and clouds.
Visual Themes: Intentional material selection seemed to be a core focus in this line. The designs featured carefully chosen organza, Italian faille, mikado, satins and tulle that were difficult to resist reaching out to touch. They were fluffy and trailing while still retaining enough structure to feel almost architectural, like very elegant, wearable wedding cakes.
Favorite Piece: This collection included a very unique wedding dress, made of formal menswear tops deconstructed and reformed into a layered a-line silhouette. Additionally, the cloud-based dresses (photos 21-26 and photos 2-11) had a texture I haven’t seen before but loved the inclusion of.
Personal Thoughts: This collection reminded me of Pantone’s 2026 color of the year, Cloud Dancer. Rather than the color itself, the thematic concept of clouds seems to be a common muse this season and this collection had the most literal, tactile interpretation. I also loved the variety of lengths in play throughout the pieces. Short options lived in perfect harmony with sisters that had extra long and voluminous trains.
The Show Itself: This was a relaxed, conversational showcase with no set runway, also held on the 2nd floor at 873 Broadway. Models appeared one at a time while the designers spoke directly to buyers about each piece’s features, inspirations, and available options. Getting to hear the thinking behind each look as it appeared made for one of the more engaging presentations of the week.
SAVANNAH MILLER
Collection Inspiration: Savannah Miller’s SS27 collection is Equilibrium, an exploration of three different creative figures as muses. Early modernist architect Max Bill’s work inspires sculptural, structured forms. Photographer Robert Mapplethorpe’s work contributes a sense of the strength of nature. Audrey Hepburn grounds the collection in femininity and elegance.
Visual Themes: Equilibrium leaned deliberately understated compared to much of what I saw this week. The gowns were clean and smooth, with notably less texture and ornamentation than most collections at this NYBFW. The details that were there felt simple and intentional, and the overall aesthetic read as effortless and comfortable.
Favorite Piece: The Luna gown hit several of my personal preferences at once: high neck, nude lining and an open back. The added godet in the skirt brings volume to the train without disrupting the clean lines of the column silhouette.
Personal Thoughts: The most consistently interesting element of this collection to me was the backside of each gown. The front silhouettes tended toward simplicity, but the reverse sides had interesting treatments that added a little refined flair to each piece.
The Show Itself: Similar to the Viktor & Rolf presentation, this was an intimate showcase where buyers were talked through each piece directly while a small group of press observed. The more personal format that suited the collection’s understated tone.
NARDOS
Collection Inspiration: The Art of Creation was a celebration of Nardos’ 10th anniversary as a bridal couture designer, built as a tribute to the story of the brand itself and the the artistry that has gone into its evolution.
Visual Themes: This collection came in with personality that I felt was missing from many of the shows I attended through the week. Chunky embellishments, heavy texture and an embrace of color (finally!) set it apart immediately. There was a lovely mix of short and long gowns, including one of the only tea-length options I saw all week. There were also some hand painted elements, which is an emerging trend I’m happy to see growing.
Favorite Piece: This is the one collection from the week where I truly cannot narrow it down. Almost every design was one that I would consider in my favorites. Standouts include Bluebell, Verdella , Mosaic Garden, and Aurielle, which might be my favorite single gown of the entire week. The Rainbow Room added something extra too: hundreds of hanging crystals cast small rainbows across each piece as the models moved through the space, and it made everything feel alive.
Personal Thoughts: Nardos had the most colorful collection of the week, and as someone who is always rooting for color in wedding attire, it was exactly what I had been looking for. The evening and ready-to-wear sides of the brand showed through this bridal line, giving the collection a bubbly and exciting energy. This collection touched on many of the themes I had seen explored across NYBFW and finally delivered on the color I had been waiting for. It was serendipitous that this was my final visit of the week.
The Show Itself: The presentation took place in the Rainbow Room at 30 Rockefeller Center. Some looks were worn by models posed on the room’s iconic rotating floor while others were displayed on mannequins lining the walls. The showcase paused several times for live performances by Nardos herself, painting and pinning new designs on the spot. 
A Nonbinary Wedding Photographer's Take on New York Bridal Fashion Week — Wedding Attire Trends for 2027
