You’ve dated long enough to know that she’s The One, and now you’re on the hunt for the perfect diamond to seal the deal. For those of us who aren’t well-versed in ring lingo, engagement ring shopping can be intimidating. The important thing to keep in mind is the four C’s: Cut, clarity, carat and color. And we’ll be tackling each of these categories in this series. First up, the cut.
The cut is perhaps the most influential in the ring’s overall aesthetic, therefore the most important aspect to consider. What most refer to as the shape of the diamond, the cut goes much deeper in detail and is actually the way light is reflected. “Historically, cut referred to shape only,” explains Ruth Batson, CEO of the American Gem Society. “Eventually, jewelers started viewing cut as they do today, which is separate from shape. Cut became important because gemologists realized that the angle of the facets affected the beauty of the diamond. A diamond can be any shape and be stunning, but the cut is what gives it life (sparkle)!”
When a diamond is cut with the proper proportions, light is returned out of the top of the diamond, giving it a brilliant sparkle. If it’s cut too shallow, light leaks out of the bottom, and if too deep, it escapes out of the side. You’ll hear jewelers talk about tiers of cuts (ranging from Ideal to Fair & Poor), but this is mostly marketing. “The thing to remember is there is marketing and then there is Ideal,” notes Batson. “The American Gem Society started the Ideal Cut and it’s only Ideal that is scientifically vetted and has supporting patents.” If a jeweler shows you a “premium cut diamond,” that means it is a better-than-average cut of stone.
When ring shopping, look for the grading report, which will tell you where the cut lands. If it’s an AGS scale, it will be zero to 10, with 10 being the basis and zero being the highest. Grading report not listed? Scan the QR code with your smartphone to verify your diamond grading reports.
Each shape is evaluated on its own individual cut, though round brilliants have been the long-standing favorite, as their angles are optimized for light performance. That’s not to say that a princess cut doesn’t dazzle, so when it comes to shape, shop for aesthetic.
See more from our Girl’s Guide to Buying an Engagement Ring:
Photo: Real Wedding Christina and Christine, photography by Megan Robbins Photography
